Supply and tools, you will need for this installation.
Mains water or bore hole (mains preferred as its
cleaner and supplied by 25mm water pipe).
230-volt electrical supply.(our system uses
roughly 7 amps.)
STS drill with 13mm drill bit.
Flat head screwdriver.
Large adjustable spanner.
When you have taken delivery of your BIO-SPARGE SMB unpack and
place all items near to where you will be situating the system.
Once unpacked and placed you will have these items.
1 X BIO-SPARGE SMB SYSTEM.
3 X ST/ST TREAD PLATES.
3.6M ST/ST PIEPWORK WITH NOZZLES.
2 X SENSOR POSTS.
2 X PIEPWORK POSTS.
2 X ULTRASONIC SENSORS.
26 X ANCHOR BOLTS.
8 X M8 BOLTS WITH WASHERS.
1 X KEY.
1 X MANUEL AND FITTING INSTRUCTIONS.
(Note the number of st/st tread plates,st/st pipework with
nozzles and anchors vary to each customer’s needs).
Refer to groundwork schematic on page 14 if you need to
installation of the water and electrical supply needs to be ducted into the middle of the concrete plinth where the system is to fit on, position the BIO-SPARGE SMB above and use the 4 No blanking plates on the sides to run your electrical supply and plumb in your water supply into the system form underneath. (If you have your water and electrical supply already waiting by the side of your pre-existing concrete roadway you can run your electrical cable through one of the 4 No blanking plates). Once plumbed in turn your water on and check for any leaks. DO NOT switch mains on until all sensors are completely fitted.
As of figure above your water inlet is on the right which connects to the ballcock ,the overflow on the left which you need not touch unless you want to pipe it out of the system through one of the blanking plates. As of figure 1 below this is where your electrician will connect your mains supply.
After unpacking the BIO-SPARGE SMB ,place to desired position. this will be be to the side of the roadway where your utilities are, please note where the outlet hole is on the BIO-SPARGE SMB this must be facing across your roadway. Once in position now unpack the pipework which has been numbered to aid you in fitting, No 1 will screw into the system as shown in figure 3 below. (note it may help lifting and resting the system on a piece of wood to help you see the connection for which to screw into).
Once pipe No1 has been fitted carry on through the numbers remembering to use PTFE tape until you get to the uprights.
Once at the uprights, fit the furthest away from the system first having one of the upright posts to hand with a Philips screwdriver, tighten upright post and undo the rubber clamp on the post and fit pipe into then tighten up. Ensuring all jets correctly face towards vehicles.
After tightning do the same on the other side to have a finished spray bar as shown below.
On completion of spray bars assembly with the posts ensure your spray bars are parallel with the system ,once completed start laying the st/st tread plates into position. See figure 8.
Once all your tread plates are down you will need to put the systems bolting plates on, there are 2 No of these handed to each side of the system supplied with bolts as shown in figures 9 and 10.
With the system plates fitted you can now start anchoring down
the system and spray bar posts with anchors supplied, always drill extra in
depth to allow the bolt to be fully inserted.
Once finished anchoring down the system,(please tighten anchors after 2 weeks of use). we will now move onto fitting the sensor posts and running the power cable. These will be positioned no less than 3 meters from the system, if vehicles are travelling at speed this may need to be further than 3 meters. The sensor cable is 24 volts so can be mounted above or below ground in trunking or conduit as required. Once you’ve decided on above or below ground and have run the cables no less than 3 meters and have the position you want the sensor post, position post on edge of roadway where they are not likely to be hit.
On completion of the fitting of beam posts the excess wire from your conduit or ducting can be run through the hole on the bottom of the post and up to the mounting bracket for the sensor.
Once you have run the wire to the sensor bracket undo the rubber clamp using a Philips screwdriver and let it hang loose, then you will need to connect the sensor to the cable, follow figure 13,14 and 15 below.
As seen in figure 14 the sensor connectors have a locating pin once located give a slight push on the back of the connector as seen in figure 15 , when located and pushed in start screwing the socket until hand tight, DO NOT overtighten.
Once you have connected the wire you can now mount the sensor into its holding bracket. As seen in the figure 16 below mount the sensor on the st/st threaded area, also having the digital screen facing outwards so you can see it and get to the buttons for any additional set up.
Once you have finished mounting the sensor and sorting any additional setup you can put the yellow sensor casing on with the 2 x m8 bolts with washers as seen in pic on last page.
As seen in above pic you can tidy up the excess wire by cable tying to the post with the holes provided.
We now have the system in place anchored down with a full water tank, no leaking pipes and power to the system. First operation of the system, take the very end jet off so the pipe is open, you can now purge the system of any dirt and debris, reassemble and turn the system on. It will take 2/3 times of triggering to prime all the pipework. after triggering the system for a few times you can now connect up to the chemical. We recommend using a 20L tub of chemical to work best with our injection system as seen in the figure below place your chemical tub in the system, remove the lid and place our float switch with suction hose into the chemical tub, there is no need to screw on tightly just placing it on with half a turn is sufficient.
When you have the chemical tub in, press and hold the play button on the seko injector to prime the pipework with chemical to the water supply.
Once you have the system fully operational, spraying vehicles with disinfectant a couple of checks are needed, firstly check for leaks in the compression fittings on the inside pipework as they can become loose in transport and secondly check there is sufficient water running back into the tank from the dead head pipe see figure below. If there isn’t you will need to turn the tap anticlockwise to allow more to flow through.
Both the internal and external thermostats are pre-set to 5 degrees and 0 degrees respectively.
Note that if you are fitting a
BIO-SPARGE SMB the system is checked, tested and primed at the workshop so your
chemical dose will be pre-set to ¼% and the pump primed with water. Please
check with your chemical supplier that ¼% is adequate.
We have had the poultry incinerator for over 10 years and we have it serviced once a year. I like it as it keeps the farm clean and compiles to the Ministry. It’s a wonderful system and cost effective when compared with smelly skips. There are no rats, no smell, no flies and I would highly recommend the poultry incinerators.
- Spencer Hitchman. Owner of a Poultry Farm
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